In March, two friends & I went to an AA state assembly in Williamsburg. For most of our time there, it was cool & rainy, but on Sunday, our day to return to Richmond, the sun broke through and the temperatures became mild. It was a lovely Spring day, and we went for a stroll through Colonial Williamsburg. I'm glad I had my trusty camera with me so that I can share some photographs with you of the historic area.When I was growing up, my parents & I went on frequent weekend trips to places of interest in the surrounding areas. Sometimes we traveled to places like Luray Caverns or Natural Bridge; other times we would go to historic sites.
I remember visiting Williamsburg, touring the restored area, and staying in a motel called Carolyn Court on Route 60. At the time, I guess I thought that Colonial Williamsburg had always looked that way. What we see today in old Williamsburg was actually the brainchild of Reverend W.A.R. Goodwin with the financial backing of John D. Rockefeller, Jr.

Before the extensive restoration work got under way, Williamsburg had become a sleepy backwater town. A 1912 editorial in the Richmond Times-Dispatch dubbed the town "Lotusburg" because "Tuesday was election day in Williamsburg but nobody remembered it. The clerk forgot to wake the electoral board, the electoral board could not arouse itself long enough to have the ballots printed, the candidates forgot they were running, the voters forgot they were alive." Another account I read spoke of a befuddled bell ringer who thought it was Sunday morning, rang the bells at Bruton Parish Church, and most of the townsfolk dutifully showed up, but it was Wednesday.

The first psychiatric hospital in the U.S. was built in Williamsburg in 1771, originally called the Public Hospital for Persons of Insane and Disordered Minds, known these days as Eastern State Hospital. The 1770 Act in the Virginia colonial legislature stated "Make Provision for the Support and Maintenance of Ideots, Lunaticks, and other Persons of unsound Minds.' During those times, treatment for mental disorders was restraint and discomfort. Patients could enjoy cold plunge baths, bloodletting, intimidation, cupping glasses (sounds ominous), blistering salves, and - new in 1793! - sessions with the electrostatic machine.

The photo above shows Duke of Gloucester Street, the primary street in the colonial section, anchored at the western end by William & Mary's Wren Building, and House of Burgesses (the Capitol) at the eastern end. Immediately below are photos of a merchant's window, followed by the Milliner's Shop.



The stout building above is the Powder Magazine. That name made no sense to me as a child, no matter how many times my dad tried to explain it.

That's the Governor's Palace up there, and a horse & carriage ambling by the gate below.

The original Governor's Palace was destroyed by fire in 1781. Some outbuildings survived, but were demolished during the Civil War. The Governor's palace we can tour today is a reconstruction based on drawings by Thomas Jefferson (the last resident, who urged that the capital be relocated to Richmond for security reasons during the American Revolution), General Assembly records, and a copperplate engraving found in England's Bodeian Library.

The restoration of Colonial Williamsburg got underway in 1926 with the quiet acquisition of properties by Reverend Goodwin and John D. Rockefeller in the designated area. They revealed their plans in two town meetings in 1928. Structures that post-dated 1790 were demolished, and 88 of the approximately 500 buildings in the historic are are original. Most buildings were completely recreated.

When I was born, my parents were into the modern look. Their furniture had clean, square lines. The end tables and coffee table were blond wood and metal. Somewhere along the way, this stuff went out and Early American furniture entered the house.
As it turns out, Colonial Revival decor started in the 1870's with the U.S. Centennial. The simplicity of true American colonial design was mashed together with Victorian fussiness. As the popularity of the Victorian era faded, Colonial decorating motifs became simpler. Travel became easier in the 20th century, and people made pilgrimages to historic homes. Williamsburg became a popular travel destination, and the Colonial Williamsburg Foundation became a national leader in retailing museum-quality reproductions of items in its collection, including furniture, pottery, pewter and silverware.

Williamsburg is a great place for a stroll. It is truly "picture perfect." Archaeological excavations continue to bring up secrets from the past, and Colonial Williamsburg operates as a 301-acre living museum. Although you must buy tickets to tour the buildings, anyone can walk the streets without charge. Re-enactors are dressed in period clothing, although there was a bit of a fracas prior to the U.S. Bicentennial in the 1970's when someone thought it would be a good idea to outfit the tour guides in polyester red-white-and blue pantsuits. Tourists were not at all pleased. The pantsuits plan was ditched.
I wonder, though, what the real old Williamsburg looked like in its heyday. I doubt that all of the houses were painted so neatly, and that streets were as clean as they are today. Just judging by the few horse carriages nowadays and their wake, I'm pretty sure the streets were filled with horse poop. There were probably chickens flapping around, dogs fighting, pigs squealing, babies squalling, cats yowling, women mud-wrestling, and politicians prancing around in dust-coated tights. We get a sanitized version today of what must have been a rough & tumble small-town existence in the middle of deep forests, swamps, and rivers.
At one time, in an attempt to ward off disgruntled Native Americans, a stockade was built across the middle peninsula between the James & York Rivers. This was a harbinger of Manifest Destiny, which would push the original Americans ever westward into smaller & smaller controlled settlements. Nearby, at Weyanoke Plantation, artifacts have been unearthed proving that this area was settled 10,000 years ago...and it wasn't by greedy Europeans.


The picture below is the House of Burgesses, which was the Capitol of Colonial Virginia. Our state legislators still assemble here one day every four years. I'm sure they get a lot of work done on those days, too. No, really.
President Obama took his first trip aboard Air Force One to a House Democrat's retreat in Williamsburg back in February. I remember waiting for a flight at nearby Newport News-Williamsburg International Airport, and watching Air Force One practice repeated landings and take-offs several years ago.
After our stroll, we aimed the car toward Richmond. We made one more stop, at the Hog Wild Smokehouse on Route 60. The food was quite delicious, and I'm sure will eat there again when I can. This place used to be a biker bar, closed by day but rowdy at night. Today it's a cute little eatery. You can decide what you want to order by clicking here.
























I took the next picture from my front door around nine o'clock in the evening. Sometimes when it snows, the temperature isn't terribly low. This was not the case during this storm. When I woke up the next day it was ten degrees.


















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